Thursday, July 17, 2008

Her Fetish Perfume

Les Parfums de Rosine has hacked out their own section of the niche perfumers' market by doing nothing but rose fragrances. I approve. I also approve of their English-language website, which is hilarious. They may just have a translator who is not all that native-fluent in English, but I suspect that at least some of the time they're using computer translation. Add to this the very French method of describing each fragrance in terms of the woman who uses it, and you have some delightfully fun reading. The fragments below don't do it justice. Go and read.

They begin by telling you a little about the perfumer:

Marie-hélène Rogeon was born into a family of perfume makers and her grand grand father Louis Panafieu was creating Eau de Cologne for the Emperor Napoleon III and a famous Pommade des Mousquetaires for his lacquer like finish moustaches.


They also tell you about their production method:

Every product is scrupulously packed by experimented workers.


And they tell you about the perfumes. This is from my favorite description:

A new fragrance for spring, DIABOLO ROSE, a joyful combination of rose and mint.

She always moves. On a fine and fresh face draged out an impertinent smile.
She drinks sparkled waters, mint lemonades (lemon soda flavoured with mint syrup), green ice tea.

She walks in the street with her favorite purse, crouched under her arm like a charm.
She arrests and looks for DIABOLO ROSE, her fetish perfume.

When she was a child, she played diabolo, now she plays another game. To charm amuse her. She attracts attention. And hearts fly.


I've been experimenting with the Rosines to see if they make my rose-loving heart fly. Here's the results from the first five products from the hands of the experimented workers:

1. Zeste de Rose ("On a fresh and delicate note, Un Zest de Rose gives the feeling of being neat.") This is a citrus rose, very fresh and in-your-face to begin with, and developing a sort of tea-rose (or Tea Rose) quality. Almost apple-y, although I don't think there's an intentional apple note. Very summery, clean and not too sweet. I like it.

2. Rose d'Ete ("Rose d’Eté is wearing by a blooming and happy woman whose beauty is natural and sensual.")At first sniff I did not care for this as much as the Zeste. It has lotus, or something, one of those watery-smelling things I usually do not go for at first sniff. It smelled a bit--unfocused. Not so much rose. I kind of shrugged, and went out wearing it--and it bloomed. I was getting lovely wafts of it, and it was mixing in with the wafts from people's gardens as I walked, and it was just cool, and pleasant, and the absolute soul of summer. I REALLY like it. Possible purchase.

3. Rose Kashmirie ("She is so baroque and loves to be exuberant.") This is supposed to be an oriental, with rose attar, and saffron, and God knows what else. A "wintery" rose. I was hoping for a slightly more affordable and functional something-something like the great YOSH Winter Rose disaster. I get baby powder. Nice, slightly rose-scented baby powder, but baby powder all the same. I have put the sample aside, wondering if it may develop better on me during cold weather.

4. Rose de Feu ("Her universe is intimate and is only revealed by the firelight.")
Spicy rose, and I may return to this, because I haven't really worn this all day yet. It is indeed spicy, and seems nice. I suspect it's another cold-weather fragrance. Look for later commentary.

5. Poussiere de Rose ("She may be nostalgic, also she is very active. Her world is the soft elegance of her apartment.") I had to look this one up, "poussiere" means "dust". It's a woodsy, incensey, floral, rather subtle, and it does dry down to a sort of dry quality, which is indeed more like incense dust than powder. It's got some of the qualities I was looking for with the Shaal Nur, and I really do like it.

More to follow--I have ten or eleven of these things to go.

Playing at Sephora

Yesterday I happened to be in downtown San Francisco with a little time to spare, so I popped into Sephora and played. A few notes follow.

1. Eau des Merveilles and Elixir des Merveilles

I remembered that I had sampled Hermes' Elixir des Merveilles at some point, and hadn't liked it, but I didn't remember why, so yesterday at Sephora I succumbed again to the name, the pretty bottle, and the rave reviews at various online sources, and spritzed the Eau and the Elixir at point up my hand and arm.

Eau des Merveilles starts with a happy frivolous blast of chemical orange, but then--and now I recall why I rejected the Elixir last time--it turns to bug spray. The stuff that your mom spritzes on you to keep the mosquitos off? That stuff. I can't even analyze the smell. It's bug spray.

Elixir des Merveilles does not even bother with the happy citrusy top notes. It goes straight to bug spray. I kept waiting to see if something else would develop, but it stayed bug spray, even after I scrubbed the back of my hand with the antibacterial foam Macy's provides in little dispensing machines by the elevators. This stuff has some good staying power.

I kept sniffing periodically all the way home, trying to see if I could get past the DEET and find anything else. Maybe kind of a woodsy smell? Whatever it was, the bug spray prevailed, above and below, and I have written this family of pretty bottles off, unless I need an elegant perfume to spray mosquitos with at some point.

2. Un Jardin en Mediterranee

However, happiness was mine not six inches away from the site of the mosquito-repellent disaster. I had ordered a sample of Hermes' Jardin Apres la Mousson, and while I like the watermelon opener a lot, the whole thing gets sort of musty and dry, and wasn't that great for me. Expermentally, I checked out the other two Jardins--Sur le Nil and Mediterranee.

Sur Le Nil smelled nice, and I will have to go back to it some day. Mediteranee got the whole back of the hand that wasn't covered in des Merveilles horror. I MUST HAVE MORE.

It starts with that bergamot blast thing that's apparently required by law for any fragrance that references the Mediterranean region--but already I was liking it--and then it just MELTS into softly sweet tree-flowerness, and woody herbs. There's a fig note, and I realized that I really like fig when it is just a note, as opposed to, say, a political statement. (Premier Figuier is a political statement. They grind up an entire fig tree, soak it in some alcohol, and present it to you. "Here. FIG. It smells more like sex than anything in the vegetable kingdom. You will WEAR it. You will LIKE it.")

Anyway, the Mediterranee just goes on being spectacular, and then it becomes more woodsy and herby, but still spectacular, and then it slowly, slowly fades away--and I want some. This is an official full-bottle purchase as soon as I get employed again.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Shaal Nur Frustrates My Schemes

I will admit, I had high hopes for Etro's Shaal Nur. For one thing, I liked the name. This is a general annoying perfume trait o'mine--I like things that have nice names, or are packaged in a way that's appealing to me--and it should be all about the juice, no? No way. I am too verbal for that. I'm Irish. Deal.

Anyway, it's named after a Mughal princess, and it's a citrusy floral incense, and it sounded good and I got a vial and dabbed it on.

And the top notes hit me, and my heart soared. And I KNEW, KNEW that I was going to get a bottle of this stuff and wear it for the rest of my life. Lemony, flowery incensey goodness. Wow.

Five minutes later the top notes wore off. And I ended up with something that smelled like dried-out preserved lemons--sour citrus and must. UGH.

I have tried twice more, with the same results. The first rush KNOCKS ME OUT, but when it's gone, minutes later, I'm left with something that smells sour, old and unused, and totally wrong.

Crud!

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Safran Troublant

Splashed Safran Troublant by L'Artisan all over me, and went about my business.

First things first--Safran Troublant makes me smell like a Persian dessert, with all that saffron and the rose backup. I have no problem smelling like a Persian dessert. It was pleasant. I like saffron in food, and I found it kind of nice to have floating around me.

I do not understand the name. 'Troublant', if I understand correctly means 'troubling', 'disturbing', something like that. L'Artisan translates the name as "Saffron Spell". All of this led me to imagine something deeper, more acrid, more intense. Naah. Iranian dessert treat. I think Mashti Malone makes an ice cream that tastes exactly like this smells, with pistachios in it. It's sweeeeet saffron, that's the strongest impression I get from it. Innocent. Kind of charming.

I like it, I do. The saffron smell is awfully nice. I guess I was expecting something dryer and darker. I can see wearing this again--it's a nice sort of weekend smell. It's also inspired me to make risotto milanese some time soon, so this is an all-around win, no?